Despite the extensive wine list, A.O.C.'s initials stem not from the appellation system but from the title of a popular French gastro-film, L'Aile ou la Cuisse (The Wing or the Thigh).   You'll find an extensive menu of quotidians, from breakfast and lunch (pastries, croque-monsieur) to dinner (duck confit, moules frites).   Chef Romain Bonnans rejects culinary arcobatics and relies on the pure and simple:   One taste of his salmon tartare in a mélange of fresh cucumber, tomato and capers shows you why.   Hanger steak is refined by a sause of white wine, shallots and port.   The disarming staff evokes Paris without pretense.

– Time Out New York